Sewing a hem is one of the most useful basic skills for repairing and altering clothes. It can shorten trousers, tidy the edge of a skirt, or keep a sleeve from fraying. The process is simple, but a little preparation makes a big difference. A carefully measured hem will hang evenly, and the right stitch will help it survive washing and everyday wear.
Begin by trying on the garment with the shoes you are most likely to wear. This matters especially when hemming trousers or a dress, since the finished length can look different depending on your footwear. Mark the desired length with pins or tailor’s chalk. If possible, ask someone to check the back and sides, because it is easy to pin a hem unevenly while looking down at it.
Take the garment off and lay it flat. Measure from the original edge to your marks at several points around the garment. Adjust the pins until the measurement is consistent. For a straight skirt or pair of trousers, you can use a ruler or measuring tape. Curved hems may need more frequent marks because the fabric does not lie in a simple straight line.
Next, decide how much fabric to fold under. A narrow hem of about 1 centimetre works well for lightweight fabric, while heavier material usually needs a wider fold. If the garment already has an old hem, you may be able to follow its width. Add the desired hem allowance below your final length and trim away excess fabric, leaving enough room to fold the raw edge neatly.
For a clean finish, fold the raw edge inward and press it with an iron. Then fold it inward again so the cut edge is hidden. Pressing is not just an optional finishing step; it holds the fold in place and makes sewing much easier. Use a pressing cloth on delicate fabrics and test the iron temperature on an inside seam.
When sewing by hand, choose thread that matches the fabric and cut a manageable length. A slip stitch creates a nearly invisible hem on many garments. Take a very small bite from the garment just above the folded edge, then pass the needle through the fold for a short distance. Repeat these small stitches around the hem without pulling the thread too tightly. The fabric should lie flat rather than pucker.
A blind hem stitch is another useful choice, particularly for trousers and skirts. It catches only a few threads from the outside of the garment, so the stitches are difficult to see. For casual clothing or thick fabric, a small running stitch can be perfectly practical, especially if appearance is less important than speed and strength.
If you prefer a sewing machine, use a straight stitch for most woven fabrics. Sew close to the upper edge of the folded hem, keeping the fabric smooth as you work. For stretchy knit fabric, use a narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch so the hem can move with the garment. A twin needle can also create a professional-looking finish on some knits.
Secure the thread at the beginning and end, then press the finished hem once more. Avoid stretching the fabric while ironing or sewing. If the hem looks wavy, remove a few stitches and correct the tension rather than trying to hide the problem with extra pressing.
Practice on a fabric scrap before working on a favourite garment. You will quickly learn how tightly to pull the thread, how much allowance feels comfortable, and which stitch gives the result you want. A neat hem is less about rushing to finish and more about measuring carefully, pressing well, and using small, even stitches.