There’s a moment, usually around 7:47 p.m. on a Friday, when the floodlights at Tolka Park click on and the air in Drumcondra suddenly smells of chips, damp grass, and anticipation

For most of the second half, the scoreboard at the Allianz Arena still showed the polite, expected numbers: Bayern 1–0 Bodø/Glimt. The small Norwegian club, famous for artificial p

I first noticed it in Piraeus on a late-October evening. A bakery on the corner of Sachtouri Street had no sign in the window, yet a crimson-and-white scarf hung from the awning li